Time out in San Rafael

The last time you heard from us we were heading back over the Andes from our short jaunt to Chile. Since then, we have moved, only about 300km – we sure do like moving slowly!

 

A short film of our Dakar experience

We spent a week in Mendoza, the heart of wine country here in Argentina. The quality of wine produced in this region is amazing, and it is really difficult to find a bottle over the $10 mark. At this price they are truly exceptional, but for around $3 you can find a very decent drop. Our time in Mendoza was lazy for the most part – we found a little apartment right in the downtown area with a leafy balcony from where we could watch the world go by. Mornings were spent café hopping, afternoons for siesta. As long as you aren’t in a rush, it is very easy to slip into the way of life here in Argentina! We did take a day out to cycle around Maipu, a nearby wine area which had clusters of bodegas, artisanal food places and even a micro brewery (which Mark wasn’t too impressed with). 

But, it was time to move on, to our next volunteering gig, 250km south, close to the rural town of San Rafael. San Rafael is a genuine oasis in the desert, thanks to the ‘asaquias’ an ancient Moorish system of irrigation introduced by the Spaniards hundreds of years ago.  Water is channelled from a river through an intricate system of canals and each property is allocated a watering time of about 6 hours a week, during which gates are closed and the water floods over the land, giving it a really good soak.  We have also enjoyed many an afternoon cool-off, floating down the asaquia that runs along the front of the property here, a lush waterway overhung by grapevines and pomegranate bushes.

Desert meets irrigation

Our hosts have been Dave, Susan and Tiv, an expat family who have made a life here in central Argentina. We have been helping them with chores around the property during the mornings, before the sun gets too hot. It’s amazing how much there is to do on a rural property that hasn’t even been developed for farming.

Mark has built a beautiful vegie garden for Susan and chopped a mountain of wood (they use wood here to heat water, heat the house in winter, and of course for the many ‘asados’ (BBQs) that are a part of life here in Argentina). I took on the ominous task of hacking at prickly ‘3-corner jack’ weeds that are incredibly painful to stand on, for both humans and 4- footed creatures, such as Rex and Catorce, the resident dogs.

'man work'

weeding!

It's not a veggie garden until there are veggies in it - Susan, this is a hint!

Catorce (or fourteen). I called him JD - Jesus Dog as he had been back from the dead! after being hit by a lump of wood

Rex, a mountain of canine! He is the first dog whose motto is "pat me or I will eat you!"

Our biggest project has been digging under a row of 7 huge eucalypt stumps that have marred the view out over the asaquia for many years. The plan was to dig out under them and then light a fire and burn the stubborn suckers out. I found muscles I never knew I had, crawling deep into holes, between tangled roots, contorting myself into spaces that Mark could not fit. Finally after a few weeks of daily digging, we decided it was ready to light. So far it has been burning for 2 days – a very satisfying sight indeed.

in the hole with Catorce

a roaring blaze

There are a surprising number of expat residents in this relatively small town, mostly Americans and Brits. We have had the pleasure of experiencing a thriving social life while we have been here – Poker Fridays, Bocce Sunday, as well as all the events that come with Christmas and New Year. We have met some wonderful people, and shared some delicious home cooked meals. During all of our other volunteering experiences we have had the opportunity to meet the locals- indigenous in small villages as well as city dwellers – and learn their language, culture and way of life. It has been a different, but just as interesting experience, here in San Rafael – learning how life is for an expat resident in Argentina.

a gentle game of Bocce in 40 degree heat with beer!

 Those of you know us well, are familiar with our appreciation of unique and exceptional wines. We have had the opportunity to meet a couple from the UK, who retired here, bought some land and started growing grapes and making wine from scratch. It’s been interesting to learn about the process wine goes through from vine to bottle, as well as motivating to see people who have come out here with a dream and succeeded. Of course we have also enjoyed sampling some of their wares! Check out www.lafraccion.com

Malcolm showing us his vines

another use for a wine barrel!

We shared a fantastic experience with Tiv (Tivoli), Susans 14 year old daughter. She wants to be a flying doctor, and so she received a flying lesson for Christmas. Mark and I were privileged to be passengers in the 4-seater Cesna while she took to the wheel over some stunning scenery. A cool, calm and collected chica she was, and the instructor was very impressed with how well she picked it up.

Pilot and passengers

 

Our ‘grand finale’ of San Rafael was Dakar day. We headed out early to a desert area south of San Rafael, near the entrance to some big sand dunes. It was a real circus when we arrived – tent city, with the locals making a day of it, even some cooking up big hunks of meat in fire pits in the sand. 

meat is an artform here, there are NO vegetarians

Set up for the show

Our Dakar team!

 We waited for what seemed like hours with the hot sun pounding down, and finally at about 11am the first motorbike came through, flying up the sandy track. You could really see the skill and lack of fear this guy had. He overshot the corner, but took it in his stride, throwing the bike around and powering right over some scrubby hills to get back on track. We watched for about 3 hours, and saw most of the motorbikes come through, and the beginning of the ATVs. Would have been great to see the cars and trucks, but they were still hours away, and still the sun was beating down.

We arrived back in San Rafael at about the same time as the motorbikes, and had the surreal experience of riding with them down the road to the bivouac (base camp). The road was lined with fans cheering and yelling, waving and taking photos. 

But, as always, the time comes to move on. Sadly, we will say goodbye to Susan, Dave and Tiv, and head of further south towards Patagonia. Time is tickin’, and although we don’t like to travel to a schedule, we have a flight to catch out of Rio in less than 2 months and more than 10 000km.