On theRoad Again

by Carlie

It’s hard to believe that only 3 nights have passed since we rode out of Isinlivi and away from Gladys, her family and Llullu Llama, on this next leg of our adventure. I feel worlds away from that sleepy peaceful village. 

Saying goodbye to Gladys

After bumping our way out of the Quilatoa Loop region, we wound our way through gorgeous valleys towards Banos (named after the thermal baths on the area.  Banos is in a gorgeous location, surrounded by lush green mountains – there was a waterfall gushing from the mountainside right by the hostel garden where we camped for the night. The day we arrived the weather was sunny and warm – it was so nice not to need to rug up in blankets all the time! But the next day we awoke to drizzly rain and decided to move on.

Banos town

Before breakfast we tried out the thermal baths that Banos is so famous for. I had to wear an ‘obligotorio’ shower cap, but so did everyone (except Mark, who refused on account that he has no hair!) Surprisingly there were no other gringos there – must have been too early for them. The water was a murky brown colour from all of the minerals, but was steaming hot. We left feeling very clean and relaxed.

Thermal baths

After breakfast we rode the ‘Ruta de Cascadas’ (waterfall route) which connects Banos in the mountains and Puyo on the edge of the Amazon. What is it about the sight of falling water that makes humankind stop and stare in awe? There were so many waterfalls visible from this road, dropping from the steep green hills to the raging river in the canyon far below. If it wasn’t for the damp weather, it would have been one of the best days on the road.

one of many beautiful waterfalls

Little did we realise that the drizzly rain that day would be nothing compared to the never ending tropical downpour we encountered the next day…  The sky was overcast but dry as we left Puyo in the morning.  Half an hour down the road we stopped to check out Cascada ‘Hola Vida’, a waterfall recommended to us by the guy who ran the hostel in Banos. It was a pretty hike through the rainforest, not unlike back home, and it ended at a pretty waterfall.

Cascada Hola Vida

rainforest hike

As we were admiring said waterfall, the first drops began to fall from the sky. We got back to the bike fairly wet, donned our wet weather gear and headed onwards. The rain didn’t stop. It got heavier and started falling sideways. The road looked like a river. But on we went. Then the wet weather motorbike gear stopped being waterproof. I could feel the raindrops hit my hands through my gloves. I could feel a puddle forming and then sloshing about in my pants. It grew colder and colder and still the rain came down.

Amazon landscape

Mark was concentrating really hard on the wet road and did a great job. I was watching the km markers slowly count down to the next town. Finally Macas, our destination loomed before us. We could just make out the buildings through the sheets of water. Mark pulled up and I sloshed across the street to a hotel to enquire about the price and if they had a garage. The room was smelly and mouldy, and our wet clothes were hanging from every available surface, but at least we were high and dry!

clothes drying in the room

In the morning it was back into the Andes. The first 25km was still under construction and Mark was swearing and cursing the whole way. We went through sections of potholes, and sections with loose gravel Mark likened to wet marbles on the road. At least it wasn’t raining. 

I definitely don’t take Mark’s riding skills for granted. We go through all types of terrain, from super smooth tarmac to potholes, gravel and mud. From crazy city traffic, to remote stretches where the only obstacles on the road and the occasional cow, sheep or chicken. And all through this, I just sit on the back, watching the world go by. I am immensely grateful to Mark for enabling me to make this journey, that I never could have done alone. I know this journey is a lot different for him than for I. For me, it is about the sights, sounds, smells and people, both along the way and in places we stop. I don’t need to concentrate on road surfaces and traffic, or on the need to grease the chain or change the oil, but Mark always needs to have this at the back (or front) of his mind. Thank you Mark xx

Once the surface turned to asphalt, it was easy going again. We stopped at the town of Guamote to check out the market – one of the most important in rural Ecuador. Almost everyone, men and women, were wearing traditional dress, so it was really colourful.

Guamote local

After more spectacular riding through more mountainous scenery, we made it into the gorgeous colonial town of Cuenca – time for a few days of well earned rest.

Cuenca